"Humbert"
2.1
Smooth sea, quite warm, saw the
snow mountains on Crete, all afternoon, and in the evening the light house the
highest in the world. Beautiful
moonlight.
"Humbert"
2.2
More rough and cold, thought I
would do a great deal but was rather afraid to stir about much.
"Humbert" Sicily
2.3
Spent the day in the harbor at
Meissena. George, Mr. M. XXX, Dr.
Register and I took a drive about the town, Campo Santo and two churches,
beautiful view from former rather like Bellagio, the hills green, olive trees
clouds hanging over hills, snow on the mountains in Italy. Stone XXXMt. Stromboli flaming(?) in evening.
Naples
2.4
Landed about 10 a.m. in pouring
rain. We rowed across the harbor to
customs house, they wished to charge for brass but decided not to, found a lot
of letters waiting, our trunk and hat box all right but poor rooms. Mine looked out on terrace of narcissus,
fuss with XXX Vesuvius not very active
Naples
2.5
Geo. goes up Vesuvius with Dr.
Register, I look over my trunk and write to Mamma. In p.m. took a carriage and went shopping, very rainy. The streets look quite clean since seeing
Jerusalem and Constantinople. G. has
given up going on the Werra as it only carries second class.
Naples
2.6
Drove to Pompeii, a two hour
drive, very interesting through little villages, saw lots of XXX. We say the House of the XXX, the finest in
Pompeii, House of Glancus and House of XXX, also walked out to the Colliseum,
got back to the hotel just before the rain.
Naples
2.7
Very
rainy. About twelve went to the Museum,
Homer, and Venus of Capua, also marble candlesticks I like. Had lunch at the Arcade, rather poor, I
thought. Went shopping driving home
alone about five, this is the second time and I have not had the least
unpleasant experience. And XXX XXX
collar (?) Graphic.
Naples, "S.S. Ortona"
2.8
Rainy as usual. Went on board at nine accompanied by
musicians, a flower boat also, the Ortona very nice, clean and large. It is a comfort to be on an English boat,
the flowers are just coming out. I am
sorry to leave Italy.
"S.S. Ortona"
2.9
Smooth, but very cold, saw the
coast of the Riviera and Marseilles about six p.m. as it was dark and we did
not go up to the deck. We could not
leave the steamer, all English on the boat, tea in the morning and afternoon.
"S.S. Ortona"
2.10
First day, lovely, clear, calm
day. Only three more first days until
we are at home I hope. Read all
afternoon, saw the Balearic Isles.
"S.S. Ortona"
2.11
Still very calm though cloudy,
many ships in sight as we approach Gibraltar, snow on the mountains in Spain in
sight all day. Very bad landing, dark
and rainy. Lady Lawrence came with us
and as there were not enough rooms, she Pillars of Hercules and I had the
drawing room (?).
Gibraltar. rainy in a.m.
2.12
Went to Cooks and XXX last of my
letter of credit, bought some lace, in p.m. we three walked to Galleries Lower,
fine view of the Bay, then to the XXX Garden, lovely spring flowers,
XXX(jenesta?) growing wild everywhere.
Gibraltar, Seville on the
XXX. Clear
2.13
Rose at 4 a.m. Lady Lawrence, G.
and I went across to Algeciras, where we took the train. Had sent the luggage on before. Early morning light very beautiful. The rock of Gibraltar looked very fine first
by moonlight, then the sunrise, a most interesting country, jenesta(?), white
lilies, etc. everywhere, cherries, trees in full bloom. The little pink petals blew at the
windows. High ravines, mountain
torrents, green fields, forests of olive and orange trees, gendarmes at
each station, girls flowers in their hair and bright scarfs, selling eggs and
oranges. Lunch at Boladilla, change
cars at Ronda, Seville at 5 p.m. Seville birthplace of Velazquez (1599-1660) & Murillo (1617-82),
March 31, 1493 Columbus was received here on return from his first voyage.
Seville. rainy
2.14
Casa de Pilatos, fine XXX tile,
Don F. de Ribera, old city walls built by Moors, Cathedral Gothic, very
fine, first silver brought from America by Tomb of Ferdinand, largest organ in
world, "Guardian Angel" Murillo, Mater XXX "St. Anthony of Padua's Vision of the Holy
Child" M. XXX XXX, Museo
Provincial, Murillo "S.F. Felix holding the Holy Child in his Arms,"
St. Thomas distributing alms, 14 Conception XXX faces.
Madrid
2.15
Reached M. about 11 a.m., very
cold. Snow on mountains, Sierra de
Guadarrana(?). No sign of the riots,
walked to Real Academia de Bellas Artes, Murillo "Dream of the Roman
Knight" (Santa Marial Maggiore); Museo del Prado Murillo
"Conception," ["878" is scribbled in-between lines], "Surrender of
XXX" Velazquez, Ethnographical Museum, walked along the Prado. At dinner looked out on the Puerta del
Sol. All houses built in Moorish
custom, inner courts, Alcazar, beautiful palace of Moorish kings, fine azulejos
and carved marble. Court of the Maidens
white marble, and very pretty, Salon de Embajadores fine.
[this is at the top of the next
page, so I don't know if it goes with 2.15 or 2.16 entry]
a granite staircase leads to
it. marble and gold very fine, also
beautiful white marble tombs three or four rooms for princes, etc. Sacrista and Chapter Rooms, fine and great
number of tapestried rooms in palace, rooms of Philip II, severely plain
opening on the high-altar where he died. We had a French guide, and the luncheon at the Fonda de Miranda
fairly good, the little children have such pretty eyes.
Madrid
2.16
Escorial, started early in morning, 9 a.m. to
Escorial, 1 3/4 hrs. ride, very cold. Escorial built by Philip II vowed during battle of St. Quentin(?) fought on day of St. Lawrence, Aug. 10, 1557
as a church dedicated to him was destroyed by Spanish artillery, huge gray
stone buildings supposed to be in shape of grid-iron, late-Renaissance, looks
rather like the Tower of London, Biblioteca de Impresos, marble jasper XXX, beautiful
old books and illuminations, church and place in choir where Philip II
sat. Most beautiful marble and onyx XXX
high-altar, kneeling figures of Chas V and family, also Philip II and
family. Panteon de los Reyes
Madrid
2.17
On account of the riots no cabs to
be had so we walked to church, going home we saw some of the Carnival confetti,
etc. The streets were a great sight in p.m., fancy dress, confetti, and paper
ribbons, floats, etc. Such a
crowd. George went out, but I saw quite
enough from my window.
Madrid
2.18
Could not see the collection of
armor and royal stables on account of the Carnival. The city is in a state of siege on account of the riots. In p.m. went again to Museo Prado, I like
Velazquez better. Saw great crowds of
gay people, the Carnival is on in full swing. Left for Granada 8:20 p.m.
Cordova, Granada
2.19
Arrived about seven a.m., walked
through the old town the original capitol of the Moors in Spain. To the Cathedral the open court of orange
trees very pretty, ascended the tower, XXX XXX XXX, formerly a mosque, many
beautiful columns and pillars of different marbles, also mosaic. Walked over bridge and out into the country,
the houses in the town are very clean. It almost seems like a German or Dutch village. Fine old tower (marble, XXX jasper, breccia,
XXX styles) Cordova Cathedral second in size to the XXX of Mecca. Beautiful view of the Sierra Nevada from
Alcazaba XXX Hassan highest summit XXX covered 11.420 ft. Left C. 12:15 p.m., reached Granada about
8:30 p.m.
Granada. rainy
2.20
This place must be lovely in the
Spring. Fine elm trees and a great deal
of ivy in the park. We can only see the
walls and one tower of the Alhambra from hotel, I was not disappointed in the
Court of XXX, though I did expect more white marble. View from Alcazaba, Alameda Park, Puerta Judiciaria with hand
& key, Alhambra very plain on outside, two towers, Torre de los Picoas,
Torre de la Cantina, with wall and ivy picturesque. Court of the Lions, Hall of the Ambassadors, Room of the Two
Sisters, XXX, Palace of Chas V. unfinished, Mohammed V 1354 built finest
parts of Alhambra. Generalife,
Cipres de la Sultana, 600 years old.
Granada. rainy
2.21
Alhambra morning &
afternoon. R. of T.S. and Myrtle
Court, the prettiest a great deal of stucco, inlaid wood. Darro and Genil streams about Granada. Boabdil driven out by F. and Isabella,
Moorish Chapel with big lions, violets in the garden. Cave dwelling among cactus, where live the Gipsies (drove). The
Cathedral begun in Gothic, finished in Renaissance style, In the Capilla Real
are the Royal Monuments, Ferdinand and Isabella, Cartuja(?)—Carthusian
Convent. S.F. Bruno. Sacristy beautiful, chocolate and white
marble and cedar wood cabinets inlaid with ivory, mother-of-pearl and silver.
Granada, Bobadilla, Gibraltar
2.22
Started at 10 a.m. at the rate of
3 1/2 miles in an hour and a quarter, some of the scenery very pretty, spring
flowers and cherry blossoms, beautiful sunset olive trees in foreground. Purple mountains, dinner at Bobadilla, the
train from there to Algeriras(?) under English management, very much
better. Reached Gib. about starlight.
Gibraltar
2.23
Rainy, wrote, did a little
packing, had lunch, then bought two pieces of Maltese lace, continued packing
in the p.m. We were fortunate in
finding our trunk safe in Gib. as two Canadians lost theirs in the same hotel.
Gibraltar, S.S. Hohenzollern
2.24
Still it rains, George called at
my door about nine to say the vessel was in, so I rushed my things together to
find it had been a false alarm. I wrote
and we waited until two p.m. then went down to the wharf and over in a row boat
to the steamer. G. gave me some lovely
violets, oranges and baskets, lots of dark gulls about the steamer, very
comfortable.
S.S. Hohenzollern
2.25
Smooth, I sewed
nearly all day, and read "A Minister of France" Weyman. Miss Fowler's account of the Hohenzollern
was a false alarm. It is clean. There are no roaches, and the table is
good. Saw a whale spout and the
steamer [not finished]
S.S. Hohenzollern
2.26
Rough. I have not see such weather since I came
over on the "New York." But I
do not think the ship rolls more than most. Miss Pollard sits opposite us at table, had lunch on deck, and felt very
miserable all day.
S.S. Hohenzollern
2.27
Smooth. Reached the Azores about
eleven a.m. and came very near to San Mi [blank space] cliffs covered with XXX
and trees, all the houses and churches are white, waterfalls, one fine rock
near a town before you come to P. the XXX(cloud?) effects very pretty.
S.S. Hohenzollern
2.28
Rough and stormy. We are not having much good of the
moon. I shall be so glad to be on dry
land once more, breakfast on deck. Very
warm, slept on deck with no coat on until after 10 p.m.
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.1
Rough and stormy. A bad night. I don't think there is any chance of getting in third day. Read "Ben Hur."
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.2
Clear and smoother. I hope it will continue. Saw ship in the p.m. Very cold wind.
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.3
327 miles. Rainy and stormy all day. A regular cyclone. XXX(Trunks?) want to see it rougher.
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.4
271 miles. Clear and much more smooth. Saw a ship. Rolled all last night.
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.5
Stormy again. Snow, hail, thunder, lightning, rain and fog
in p.m. Cleared away by evening. Saw a vessel passing very near us in eve.
S.S. Hohenzollern
3.6
Very cold, ice on the windows, saw
land about twelve.
[On last page of journal:]
Letters and flowers from:
Aunt Harriet
Cousin Tham
Aunt Bella
Pattie
Aunt Lizzie L.
Mamma
Margaret
E.L. Roberts
Alice Reeve
Quarantine letters Mother & Pattie
END OF JOURNAL #2
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